old cook words

Slumps and Grunts

Slumps and Grunts

Both delicious and patriotic, slumps and grunts are almost as old as our nation itself. These English-style (but all-American) desserts date back to the Colonial era, and are a variation on that other summer dessert favorite, the cobbler. You’ll often hear cobblers, fools, crumbles, pan-dowdy, slumps and grunts all lumped together, and it’s easy to see why; all involve an addictive combination of fruit, sugar or syrup, and pastry. The differences lie in the kind of pastry used (baking-soda based biscuit dough, cake, buttery pie crust, dough crumbs, etc.) and its distribution throughout the dessert.

Slumps and grunts, which are synonymous, hail from New England. Almost any fruit can go slump-ing, but berries tend to be the baker’s weapon of choice in this case. The exact recipe varies from region to region, but reliably consists of stewed and sweetened berries topped with sweet dumplings. The berry mixture is cooked and reduced on the stove top while a basic, sweet dough is prepared. When the berry mix is good and ready, the dough is dropped by the spoonful into the berry mix. The whole pan is then covered, leaving the dumplings to steam until cooked through (some recipes also call for the berry/dumpling combination to bake in the oven until the top crisps). When done, the whole sweet mess is portioned into bowls and served warm with plenty of whipped or ice cream. The name is thought to refer to the sounds the diner makes when eating his portion, though some say it is a reference to the texture of the berries and/or sounds the berries/dough make as they cook.

Sample Blueberry Slump Recipe from The New England Yankee Cook Book.

Parkin, Perkin and Broonies

Parkin is a sweet oatmeal-based cookie with definitive British, Scottish, and Celtic roots. The sticky, cakey cookie is a relative of gingerbread, and is made primarily from oatmeal, flour, butter (or lard, which is the historically preferable fat), milk, molasses (aka black treacle), and ginger. Eggs, sugar, candied fruit, cinnamon, and golden honey are also used in some recipes. Parkin batter is prepared similarly to griddle cakes, and the resulting treat can be cookie-thin or puffed-up thick depending on the baker’s personal and regional preference.

Like most cakes/cookies there are variations on a theme, several of which have been given names reflecting British regions (Yorkshire parkin, Lancashire parkin, etc.). The Scottish refer to the thinner varieties as ‘perkins’, and have given the name ‘broonie’ to the thicker, cake-like alternatives. 

Parkin is closely associated with Guy Fawkes Day (aka Bonfire night), the English holiday celebrating the failure of 1604’s ill-fated attack on the Houses of Parliament, and is enjoyed throughout the festivities by revelers. It also was traditionally served during the Celtic celebrations leading into winter.

[Sample parkin recipe from the 1913 "FIVE ROSES COOK BOOK"]

Graham Flour

Graham Flour

Graham flour is a whole-wheat flour with a coarse, distinctive texture. It takes its name from the Reverend Sylvester Graham, a founding father of North American vegetarianism and one of the originators of “health food.” Rev. Graham felt strongly that food additives and processing were at the root of all man’s physical and moral ills, and believed that dietary intake could affect both health and moral righteousness. He abhorred white refined flour, linking it to everything from obesity to impure thoughts, and created his own aptly named, unrefined, all-natural substitute.

Graham flour is made by grinding the whole wheat berry, bran, and germ into powders; the germ and bran yield coarser textures. The three powders are then recombined to create the finished flour. Graham flour is higher in protein and fiber than refined white flour, and can be used in piecrusts, cakes, cookies, and the well-known dirty-thought deterrent Graham Crackers (which are now, ironically, made with loads of processed sugar).

Though traditional graham flour can be hard to find (some online specialty stores still carry it) a reasonable substitute can be made by combining equal measurements of standard wheat or oat flour, fine ground wheat germ, and ground wheat bran.

Catsup (Ketchup)

I say "catsup", you say "ketchup". Either is delightful with a potato or a potahto.

Catsup, the salty/tangy/spicy condiment associated with Western burgers and fries, is (despite constant debate) synonymous with ketchup. A descendent of the Chinese fermented fish sauce ketsiap, the original oriental variety supposedly was brought to Europe (and eventually the States) by traders and travelers who adapted the liquid to their own cuisine. The condiment has since evolved quite a bit, and is best known to modern palates as a table-side topper or dipping side.

Most diners recognize tomato catsup as the definitive example, but in truth “catsup” applies to any strained, seasoned, pulp/puree based sauce that is used as a condiment (when the mix is used in cooking – as a coating for meatloaf, for example – then the exact same liquid can technically be called a sauce). The original Western version of the sauce was spawned from pickled mushrooms, with the “ketchup” being the salty liquid in which the mushrooms were preserved. Apparently the liquid gradually became more popular than the actual mushrooms, and the “ketchup” became a universal word used to define salty, spicy, liquid based condiments (their shelf-lives and general usage classifying them as condiments rather than sauces). There are now countless varieties of ketchups in addition to basic tomato, including olive, caper, oyster, fruit, and even walnut.

Inspired to make your own catsups? See the [Pickling and Spicing] cookbook and [Mrs. Rorer's Canning and Preserving].

 

Schalet

The recipes for this traditional Jewish dish vary widely making a concise definition a bit tricky.

A savory schalet most frequently appears in the form of a saucy, braised, noodle-based casserole or stew made from meat, noodles, animal fat, potatoes and soaked matzos; apples also appear in many recipes. But a schalet is sometimes sweet with textures ranging from a pudding to a chewy cake. Variations on schalet (also referred to as weckschalet) resemble a baked bread pudding made from grated potatoes, carrots, apples, raisins, stale bread and/or matzos.

Traditionally speaking, schalet is a one-pot Kosher dish made during the Jewish Passover season. Prepared on Friday afternoon and left in a low oven to cook slowly over the next 8-12 hours, the dish allowed even the busiest housewife to rest and observe the Sabbath while still arranging for an appropriate meal for the family. On Saturday afternoon or evening the dish was pulled from the oven and served as, or as part of, the Sabbath meal. By the 1900’s many Sabbath restrictions had relaxed, and new recipes for quicker-cooking alternatives appeared to make the popular dish more accessible.

Sample recipes for [Apple Shalet] and [Matzoth Shalet (Passover)].

[early Jewish Cook Book with Passover recipes]

Spider (utensil)

This utensil is referenced in "The Jewish Cook Book" by Florence Greenbaum, circa 1918.

The word spider, though now considered fairly old-fashioned, refers to a generation of heavy, long-handled, reliable skillets used for frying, sautéing and/or general cooking. The pans originally were made with long “legs” (footed or unfooted metal supports) that allowed the pan to stand independently over an open flame or coals, freeing the cook’s hands for other kitchen business. The development of stoves and cooking ranges eventually eliminated the need for these legs, but the nickname for the convenient pan stuck and ultimately became synonymous with “skillet” or “frying pan” in some North and Southeastern Atlantic regions.

The term spider also occasionally refers to a freestanding, three-legged structure used for supporting kettles and large pans over an open fire.

[read more about the Jewish Cook Book]

Bombe Glacee

Bombe, or bombe glacee as it is formally known, is a rich, visually impressive dessert made by layering mousse and ice cream (and sometimes sorbet or frozen custard) in a mold; other accent ingredients such as cake, praline, fruit, or chopped nuts are also added in some recipes. Typically made with sugar, egg yolks and whipped cream, the treat takes its name from the French word for bomb, a reference to the spherical mold which traditionally shaped the layers into a large, rounded orb similar in appearance to an old-fashioned bomb. Historically speaking, the molds themselves eventually evolved and became quite elaborate, shaping the frozen goodness into colorful shapes or structures such as cones, hearts, stars, snowmen, or houses.

 Considered one of the “classic” French desserts, bombes have been enjoying a bit of a renaissance in recent years, appearing on trendy menus across the country. It has almost limitless appeal to chefs and home cooks alike due to its malleability (countless variations) and visual appeal (it’s not your mother’s ice cream cake). Though a rounded or shaped mold is preferred, home-cooks needn’t panic in the absence of one – the dessert can be layered in a simple baking pan.

Skorpor

Skorpor (aka Swedish rusks) is a dough-based baked good which is oven-dried (or “twice baked”) until hard, golden and crispy. Traditionally made with flour, eggs, buttermilk, butter (or shortening), and seasoned with cinnamon, cardamom or vanilla, the dough is shaped into a loaf or cylinder and baked in an oven. It is then sliced into thin or thick pieces and placed back in the oven to bake until dry. Skorpor is native to the Netherlands, but rusks in general are native to many locations, including Germany, Britain,
Italy, and North America.

The “twice baked” technique used is an excellent way to preserve bread; rusks have a shelf life of several months to at least half a year, and were often used as provisions for soldiers and sailors.

Skorpor is generally served alongside hot beverages such as coffee, tea, or hot chocolate (much like Italian biscotti), and can be soaked in the drink to soften its texture. The slices can also be eaten with honey, butter, preserves, or other spreads. Skorpor and rusks are sometimes given to babies as a treat/treatment during teething.

Sample cookbook with Skorpor recipe: "Five Hundred Favorite Recipes"

Baba, Babavka, Babka

This sweet baked sponge cake my be called a Baba, Babavka, or Baba, depending on the age and origin of the cookbook you are reading. The base recipe usually contains eggs, milk, flour, butter, and yeast.  Traditionally prepared with a sugary, fruit-infused glaze, Baba historically came in two main varieties: rum baba (a rum soaked cake), or fruit baba (which was made with a fruit filling of raisins, currants, candied citrus, or the like) and we have seen recipes that combine the two types. Baba without fillings or rum were also served as simple pound cakes. Other variations have since become popular as well, including (but not limited to) cream filled, cinnamon, chocolate, sweetened cheese, etc.

The cake itself has a bread-like beginning, starting out as a yeast-risen dough before eggs, butter, sugar, and the good stuff are added. The batter is then baked into individual portions or into a single large cake, which is cylindrical in appearance and can resemble a traditional bundt cake.

Baba is traditionally associated with Easter, though the treat has become popular in non-religious circles and is available during other parts of the year at many bakeries.

See recipe for rum soaked "Baba."

Jam-Jams

Not your nightie but a sandwich style cookie with a sweetened fruit preserve filling. Made from flour, sugar, eggs, shortening/butter, vanilla, and flavorings such as cinnamon or almond extract, jam jams are similar in flavor and texture to traditional thumbprint cookies. Before baking the batter is rolled quite thin and cut into various shapes – rounds, stars, hearts, etc. After baking, while the cookie is still warm, one cookie is topped with a dollop of preserves or jam (raspberry, strawberry, fig, apricot, cherry, etc.) and topped with another unadorned cookie to form a small, sweet sandwich.

Such classic finger desserts have been made for over 200 years in one form or another, and these same, or similar, cookies line the shelves of cookie aisles and bakeries across the Western world.

Sample cookie recipe at Old Recipes Found Blog: Oatmeal Jam Jams with Fig Filling